Akagera National Park was named after the Akagera River that flows along its eastern boundary and feeds into a labyrinth of lakes of which the largest is Lake Ihema. The park is located in the north east of Rwanda along the border with Tanzania. Although founded in 1934, much of the park was re-allocated as farms and in 1997 the park was reduced in size from more than 2,500 sq. km (nearly 10% of the surface area of Rwanda) to its current extent of 1,122 sq. km. Akagera National Park is Rwanda’s answer to the famous savanna reserves of Kenya and Tanzania. The eastern part of the park supports an extensive wetland, ac complex of a dozen lakes linked by extensive papyrus swamps and winding water channels fed by the mighty Akagera.

Akagera is notable for protecting an unusually wide diversity of habitats within a relatively small area. Prior to the civil war, it was regarded as one of the few African savanna reserves to form a self- sustaining ecological unit, meaning that is resident large mammals had no need to migrate seasonally outside of the park boundaries. For all that, Akagera is emphatically worth visiting.

There are plenty of animals around with the likes of buffalo, elephant, zebra, giraffe, hippo and various antelope all reasonably visible and they aren’t as skittish as one might expect. The lakes support some of the highest concentrations of hippo you will find anywhere in Africa as well as numerous large crocodiles, while lion and leopard are still present in small numbers. What is more with the bird life is phenomenal- the checklist of 550 species includes the sort of rarities that will have ardent birdwatchers in raptures, alongside a surprising density of raptors and some of Africa’s most impressive concentrations of big water birds.

Getting there

The main gate to Akagera lies in the south of the park about 500m the new Akagera safari lodge. It is reached via a 27km dirt road that branches east from the main surfaced road between Kigali and Rusumo at Kabarondo, about 15lm north of Kibungo. In a private vehicle, the main gate is about two hour’s drive from Kigali, or one hour from Kibungo. In the north park, an alternative entry point, Nyungwe gate is accessible on a rough dirt track that branches east from Kigali- Nyagatare road at the village about 70km.

Park activities in Akagera National Park

Boat Trips:

Boat trips are available on Lake Ihema and are worthwhile. Close encounters with out-sized crocodiles and large pods of hippos are all but guaranteed, and you will also pass substantial breeding colonies of African darter, cormorant and open- bill stork. Other water birds are abundant; the delicate and colourful African Jacana can be seen trotting on floating vegetation, fish eagles are posted in the trees at regular intervals, jewel- like malachite kingfishers hawk from the reeds, while pied kingfishers hover high above the water to swoop down on their fishy prey.

Game Drives:

Game drives are available only if you have a private vehicle, ideally a 4×4. Guides are provided at no extra charge though a tip will be expected to help you to find you away around, spot wildlife in the thick bush, and identify birds. The main gate- viewing circuit is in the south and is essentially limited to two main roads that form an excellent loop game drive out of Akagera safari lodge. One road runs from the entrance gate to Lake Ihema and then continues northwards, passing most of the lakes before it exits the park at the northern Nyungwe gate. The other road is signposted Giraffe viewing area, forks left from the lake road about 100m past the entrance gate and then follows along circuit through the hills before descending back to meet the lakes road on the west shore of Lake Birengero.

Birding:

Akagera is after Nyungwe, the most important ornithological site offering birding safaris in Rwanda, with a checklist of 550 species recorded before its area was reduced in 1997. What’s more, these two fine birding destinations complement each other to such an extent that very few birds recorded in Rwanda aren’t found at one or other site. In addition to being the best place in Rwanda to see a good selection of savanna birds and raptors, Akagera is as rich in water birds as anywhere in east Africa, and one of few places where papyrus endemics can be observed. Among the colourful and common of the savanna birds are the gorgeous lilac- breasted roller, black- headed gonalek, little bee- eater, Heuglin’s robin-chat, Meyer’s parrot, spot- flanked barbet and double-toothed barbet. The lakes also support a variety of smaller kingfishers and shorebirds, and a prodigious number of fish eagles, whose shrill duet ranks as one of the most evocative sounds of Africa.

Where to stay:

Akagera Safari Lodge

This smart lodge lies in wooded hilltop grounds that host a rich bird life and offer superb views over Lake Ihema into the hills of Tanzania. It has changed hands several times since it reopened. As things stand, the lodge is dated somewhat by the rather monolithic and angular 1970s architecture, but it is otherwise very pleasantly decorated and the en-suite twin or double rooms are very comfortable and presentable. Facilities include a good and surprisingly affordable restaurant, a swimming pool, conference facilities and tennis courts and the overall level of service is impressively professional given the remote locale. For those who want to do an early morning game drive the filling of breakfast normally starts at 06:00 and can be served at 05:30 by request.

Ruzizi Tented Lodge

Ruzizi Tented Lodge is tucked away in the Riverine forest on the edge of Lake Ihema. This small, private camp has nine en- suite tents and a central lounge area, all accessible by wooden boardwalks. The camp is fully staffed and catered for.

Karenge Bush Camp

Karenge means ‘small foot’ in Kinyarwanda. As well as being the name of the area where the camp was first set up, it echoes the aim of the bush camp to leave a light footprint on the earth. Karenge is seasonal camp, open for six months of the year during high season, and changing location each year. When it is taken down there should be no lasting presence of its existence.

Camping:

For the self- sufficient, this is allowed at various locations in the park.